The Real Deal UH-1Y

Picture a military helicopter. Chances are you'll see the most successful one ever, Bell's UH. An epitome of effectiveness, safety and reliability, it operates in environments from high heat to brutal cold. From military combat assaults to humanitarian evacuations, this proven workhorse executes any helicopter mission you'd care to imagine.
Within the familiar silhouette and proven heritage, Bell has applied the latest aerospace technology and manufacturing process to create the new UH-1Y. Airframe improvements, twin General Electric T700 engines, a 21st century “glass” cockpit, and advanced systems - all deliver the utmost in a tactical utility helicopter.


THE BUILD.
Just like christmas loads of boxes and packet to open, I am holding three section of the fuselages together here,so I can get a idea of size.



































The kit has turned up, I am going to use a Raptor 50 Titan for this heli., with a OS 50SX-H Hyper engine/Standard Raptor 50 muffler.
Futaba GY401/S9254.....4 x Futaba S9202......Spektrum AR7000 receiver...Along with 4.8V 2200mAh Ni-MH, JR switch Harness with built in charge socket, jack plug glow and plug in fueling point all 3 will be flush fitting, so fueling and starting can be done without having to remove any covers.





















Heres the machanices made up, ( see photos below for up grade made to starting shaft/pinon ) need to add tail and electronics to tune and run engine in, then set up and test fly before starting on the fuselarge. By the time I do this the dark night will be here and I can retire to the shed for the winter.


































































09/09/2009
I have finnished the Raptor 50 and put 5 tanks though the engine. She is running sweet and very stable in the hover with a low head speed (Thanks to Richard the king of tuning).
I have changed the glo system, after a mate came to the field with a Trex 700 with the SwitchGlo onboard glow igniter, no leads just flick the switch on your radio and start , ideal for scale, the only draw back is I will need to add a second 4.8V 2200mAh Ni-MH pack.
Now she needs a good check over and fresh grease in the bearings, maybe a couple more flights then its time to start on the fuselage.






26/10/2009
The last window to be fitted, I used Varios clear silicon to fix the glazing units in, it sets clear in only 30 mins and flexes with the fiber glass fusalarge. as you can see the unit is held in place with masking tape while the silicon sets.































Here you can see the optical sight being put together 3 wood discs are glued in place then screwed together to form the shape of the dome.








































Once all the bits are put together the end result is ok, as you can see here fitted to the nose section along with wire cutters.













































03/11/2009
Here you can see the wooden frame being assembled. The main frame comes pre made , you have to assemble the Battery & servo trays then fit them to the main frame.
I used 5 minute Z-poxy to glue the wood, just have to fuel proof all the wood now with tufkote fuel proofer.












18/11/2009
The manual shows the sliding doors fixed in place with screws either open or closed. I do`nt like this so I have fitted runners top and bottom for the door to slide on so I have the option to open or clse the doors, this will also help to regulate the air flow inside the fusalage.






09/12/2009

Had a good day yesterday got the pod and boom striped down and fitted to the wooden air frame, along with the tail servo and battery.






I`m putting a second battery on to give me 4400mAh at 4.8volt as I am using a switchGlo pro. A lipo my give me more power but its the has to be removed to be charged and balanced.




22/12/2009
Next comes the drop down gear box for the tail, this comes with the kit and is easy to assemble and fit. You replace the standard belt with one of the shorter ones supplied.







24/01/2010
It`s time to restart the build after a break for christmas, plus my beloved Trex 600N Pro needed a service badly. So now that done ready for the first signs of spring, lets carry on.

The next bit looked to be tricky, but as it turned out was not to bad once I got started, First you mount the support mount on to the plywood bulkhead then after sanding the area to be clued you epoxy it in place from both sides using a long rod to reach down inside the tail.







Once that set, I glued the other two bulkhead in place as shown hear from inside the fuselarge looking down the tail section, you can see the plastic tube fitted in place which is used for the tail pitch rod.


30/01/2010
Over the last couple of days I have installed the tail box and the dual pulleys which take the tail drive belt up the tail pylon.
Installing the pulleys at the bottom of the tail pylon was very fiddlie to assemble in place as you don`t have much room, but once done works well.

































































Here you can see the carbon tube used to fit the tail box too.




























Completed tail box waiting for the covers to go on.















10/02/2010
The manual tells you to glue the carbon tail tube in place throw a small hole in the top,
but if you turn the heli upside down you have loads of room to glue the tube.










































Once the tube is glued in place you have a wooden former to glue to strengthen the tail pylon, shown here ready to glue.









24/03/2010

As with all projects, some times you need to take a break. If you where a writer it would be called a writers block, but it`s back now, as I have my second wind..................... so lets carry on with the build.

The tail section with the covers on looks quit scale with just the end of the tail gear box showing.






















The next job is to fit the top cover, but first I had to fit the swash and mixer arms, as once fitted you can`t get in to fit these.
Once done you fit the top cover with 12x5mm wood screws.






















Then put the rotor head back on, checking for any binding by rotating the head.
















25/03/2010
Next I made up the formers for the seats, centre control panel and instrument panel.




















Here you can see the seats and cockpit made up, a basic cockpit but once in, looks OK from the outside.





11/04/2010

Once the top section is on you can fit the nose section, which just slides on to the main fuselage which is then fix with 12x5mm wood screws.


She is looking the part now..........A Huey


15/04/2010

Now the nose is fitted it `s time to take her for a test flight. of too the field............. first spool up she spins!!!!!!! giro needs reversing, thats better the wider tail blades work fine.
Need some fine tuning, as helis a bit twichy.
Also have a problem with binding, have been told that it`s due the 4.8 volts system I`m using, as I don`t want this give me any problems while I`m flying so I have desided to upgrade to 6 volts.


13/05/2010
The new 6 volt battery has been fitted in the nose section, as well has sorting out the binding problem it has also improved the S of G as I am using a 6.0v 4300mAh RC car power pack, should be able to fly all day without a charge.
I have also added some more scale detail (See new Video)

07/06/2010
The last thing to do is put the unit insignia on the fuselarge and replace the number on the nose section so it matches the number on the doors.




















22/07/2010

I just had to add some more detail, I think the 2 x LAU-68 pod of 7x70mm FFAR Rockets look mean with the 7.62 mm GAU-17/A Gatling guns.